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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.